A night on the bay under squid lamps — catch it, grill it, eat it on board
A rare way to spend a night out on Nha Trang bay
Catch it, grill it, eat it — nothing fresher
The city lights seen from the middle of the water
Squid are most plentiful from April to September; take something for seasickness half an hour before if you are prone to it, bring a jacket, and ask whether the trip includes cooking whatever you catch.
When the city lights come on, the squid boats leave the pier for the dark water in the middle of the bay, drop anchor and switch on the lamps that turn a patch of sea brilliant. The skipper hands out the lines and shows you the few basic movements — after that it is a patient contest with curious squid drawn into the glow.
The best moment is when one comes up still shimmering and changing colour, and it goes straight on the grill or into the steamer on board, with salt, pepper and lime — squid you caught yourself always tastes sweeter. On a windless night, sitting in the middle of the bay looking back at the ribbon of city lights is worth the trip whatever you catch.
Come to Nha Trang without eating gỏi cá mai and the trip is not complete
One family, one recipe, nearly 50 years. Fish landed that morning, rolled in rice paper and dipped in a secret fish sauce — the same taste since 1977.
